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This course does not run concurrently.  However, it is offered on other days/evenings so go ahead and sign up!  You can contact us at seespotsitar@gmail.com for information regarding additional course date offerings. 🙂 

If you have completed a group or private obedience course with See Spot Sit, or if your dog has completed a basic obedience course elsewhere or has obtained the AKC Canine Good Citizen certification, please come join us for the Advanced Obedience course that will begin on July 25, 2018.  This course is going to be TOO MUCH FUN!  We will cover some great stuff, including sit, down and stay from a distance, perfection of hand signals (no voice commands allowed); scent (nose) work for finding finding objects on command, retrieving them and bringing them to you; and, some more really cool stuff that I can’t give away yet!!!!

This course is 6 weeks in duration and will be held at 7:30 p.m. on Wednesday evenings.  Each class will last 45 minutes to an hour.  Classes will be held at See Spot Sit’s location, 14717 Hwy. 107, Sherwood, Arkansas, but we will be going to outside locations as well in order to challenge you and your dog with real world distractions.

Price:  $160 (pay at least 24 hours in advance and get a 10% discount)

Sign up here:  https://www.seespotsit.org/sign-up/



By | Class Updates, Continuing Education, Dog Blog, Slideshow Tips, Special Deals & Coupons, Uncategorized | No Comments

THE PAWSOME SPECIAL: 25% off Group Classes or a private assessment here at See Spot Sit’s facility, if you sign up and prepay prior to December 24, 2017. Below are some questions to ask yourself that will help you decide whether getting a dog is the right choice for you. Tomorrow’s blog will give you some tips about choosing the right dog for your family and lifestyle!

*For payment with credit or debit card, please call Charlotte at 501-612-1171 or 501-864-7692

Lots of people will be getting puppies for Christmas. Puppies make a great present IF you choose the right puppy for your lifestyle and family. Please research thoroughly and ask yourself some basic questions:

1. What will your life be like in five or even 10 years?

2. How many dogs have you owned on your own (not with your parents)?

3. How much time can you dedicate to your pet each day?

4. Can you afford to own an animal?
Remember, there are expected and unexpected vet care costs, food, training, pet sitting and/or boarding, etc. costs involved.

5. If you already have a pet, is that animal likely to accept a new housemate?

6. What do you realistically expect from a new dog and what do you hope to get out of the relationship?

7. Do you have the time and resources needed for proper training?

8. How much household destruction can you tolerate and are you willing to put in the time to start teaching the dog immediately what is his/hers to chew on and what is yours? Do you know how to do that?

9. Is everyone in the household on board with getting a pet?

10. Do you have small children?
No dog, no matter the breed, comes ready to live with children (especially small ones). If you have children, you must first teach them the rules of safe pet conduct: No teasing, pulling, pushing or climbing on animals,” Arden says. You’ll also need to spend ample time meeting different animals, so you can observe tolerance levels, responsiveness to training and the ability to bounce back from jarring incidents. Ask yourself: “Can I do this in a way that my children will understand and be able to follow?”

Are you training your dog to alert bark excessively? You might be if . . .

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Do you own an “alert-barking” dog? Think about this, your dog is outside in the yard, securely fenced of course, and barks at every passerby, whether dog, human, cat or combination. You are gone and the dog is unsupervised in the yard for hours. Passerby – Spot barks loudly and then the passerby goes out of sight. Spot becomes convinced that his barking made that happen = reinforcement of behavior.
WAIT, it happens again: Spot barks more loudly and maybe even adds some J.T. stamping or snarling, passerby goes out of sight. Spot thinks again “I did that! I made them go away.” So, what you have done is create a self-perpetuating training arena where Spot gets a functional reward for the excessive barking and reactivity. Long periods in the yard are a reward and a privilege and not a given. When you hear your dog outside barking like that, BRING HIM IN until he cools off. Find someone to come let your dogs in for awhile when you are gone for more than a few hours (or out if they are crated) even if it costs you a few bucks. This will keep your neighbors happy and help to insure that any behavior rehab you are working on to stop the obsessive behavior is successful!

Kids, Dogs and Discipline

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Although it may not be the most fun topic, proper discipline is important to address.

And while we usually prefer not to liken dogs to kids because dogs aren’t people, discipline is one area you can draw a similarity. When considering whether or not to discipline your sweet little Yorkie or even your lovable Lab for misbehaving, ask yourself these two questions:

  1. Would I let my kid get away with this?
  2. If I did, would it be good for him or her to let them get away with it?

Dogs, like children, need rules and boundaries to become well-balanced adults. The most harm you can possibly do to your dog is not setting rules, boundaries and limitations. The second worst thing you can do after that is not disciplining them for crossing those boundaries.

But, there are right ways and VERY wrong ways of disciplining your dog.

From here, drop the similarity between kids and dogs, because they need to be disciplined VERY differently. Spankings DO NOT work. Dogs don’t understand it. Would a mother-dog spank her pup for getting out of line?

Also, never, EVER call your dog to come to you to discipline them. And don’t use their name negatively like “Bad Spot!”

At See Spot Sit, we’ll teach you exactly how to discipline your dog in a humane way that they understand.

About the Author
Jamie Walden
is an experienced dog trainer and co-owner of See Spot Sit Dog Training in North Little Rock, Arkansas. Contact him at jamie.walden@ymail.com with questions or comments.


Get on Nonspeaking Terms with your Dog

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Below is a reprint of an article we think to be a thorough and pointed analysis of the nonverbal communication of dogs.

Calming Signals – The Art of Survival

by Turid Rugaas

For species who live in packs it´s important to be able to communicate with its own kind. Both in order to cooperate when they hunt, to bring up their offspring, and perhaps most importantly: to live in peace with each other. Conflicts are dangerous – they cause physical injuries and a weakened pack, which is something that no pack can afford – it will cause them to go extinct.

Dogs live in a world of sensory input: visual, olfactory, auditory perceptions. They easily perceive tiny details – a quick signal, a slight change in another´s behavior, the expression in our eyes Pack animals are so perceptive to signals that a horse can be trained to follow the contraction in our pupils and a dog can be trained to answer your whispering voice. There´s no need to shout commands, to make the tone of our voice deep and angry – what Karen Pryor refers to as swatting flies with a shovel.

The dogs have about 30 calming signals, perhaps even more. Some of these signals are used by most dogs, while other dogs have an incredibly rich ´vocabulary´. It varies from dog to dog.

The problem

Dogs use this communication system towards us humans, simply because it´s the language they know and think everyone understands.

By failing to see your dog using calming signals on you, and perhaps even punish the dog for using them, you risk causing serious harm to your dog. Some may simply give up using the calming signals, including with other dogs. Others may get so desperate and frustrated that they get aggressive, nervous or stressed out as a result. Puppies and young dogs may actually go into a state of shock.

Basic knowledge

Dad calls Prince and has learned in class that he needs to sound strict and dominant so that Prince will understand who is in charge. Prince finds dad´s voice to be aggressive, and being a dog he instantly give dad a calming signal in order to make him stop being aggressive. Prince will perhaps lick his own nose, yawn, turn away – which will result in dad becoming angry for real, because dad perceieves Prince as being pig-headed, stubborn and disobedient. Prince is punished for using his calming signals to calm dad. This is a typical example of something that happens on an everyday basis with many dog owners.

We need to learn to understand the language of dogs so that we can understand what our dogs are telling us. That is the secret of having a good life together.

How the dog is using the calming signals


The dog may yawn when someone bends over him, when you sound angry, when there´s yelling and quarreling in the family, when the dog is at the vet´s office, when someone is walking directly at the dog, when the dog is excited with happiness and anticipation – for instance by the door when you are about to go for a walk, when you ask the dog to do something he doesn´t feel like doing, when your training sessions are too long and the dog gets tired, when you have said NO for doing something you disapprove of, and in many other situations.

Threatening signals (to walk straight at, reach for the dog, bending over the dog, staring into the dog´s eyes, fast movements, and so on) will always cause the dog to use a calming signal. There are about 30 different calming signals, so even when many dogs will yawn, other dogs may use another calming signal.

All dog knows all the signals. When one dog yawns and turn his head to the side, the dog he is ´talking to´ may lick his nose and turn his back – or do something completely different.

The signals are international and universal. All dogs all over the worlds has the same language. A dog from Japan would be understood by an elkhound who lives in an isolated valley in Norway. They will have no communication problems!


Licking is another signal that is used often. Especially by black dogs, dogs with a lot of hair around their faces, and others who´s facial expressions for some reasons are more difficult to see than those of dogs with lighter colors, visible eyes and long noses. But anyone can use licking, and all dogs understand it no matter how quick it is. The quick little lick on the nose is easier to see if you watch the dog from in front. It´s best seen if you can find somewhere you can sit in peace and quiet and observe. Once you have learned to see the lick, you will also be able to see it while walking the dog.

Sometimes it´s nothing more than a very quick lick, the tip of the tongue is barely visible outside the mouth, and only for a short second. But other dogs see it, understand it and respond to it. Any signal is always returned with a signal.

Turning away/turning of the head

The dog can turn its head sligtly to one side, turn the head completely over to the side, or turn completely around so that the back and tail is facing whoever the dog is calming. This is one of the signals you may see most of the time in dogs.

When someone is approaching your dog from in front, he will turn away in one of these ways. When you seem angry, aggressive or threatening, you will also see one of these variations of the signal. When you bend over a dog to stroke him, he will turn his head away from you. When you make your training sessions too long or too difficult, he will turn his head away from you. When the dog is taken by surprise or take someone by surprise, he will turn away quickly. The same happens when someone is staring or acting in a threatening way.

In most cases, this signal will make the other dog calm down. It´s a fantastic way in which to solve conflicts, and it´s used a lot by all dogs, whether they are puppies or adults, high or low ranking, and so on. Allow your dog to use it! Dogs are experts at solving and avoiding conflicts – they know how to deal with conflicts.

Play bow

Going down with front legs in a bowing position can be an invitation to play if the dog is moving legs from side to side in a playful manner. Just as often, the dog is standing still while bowing and is using the signal to calm someone down. These signals often have double meanings and may be used in many different ways – often the invitation to play is a calming signal by itself because the dog is making a potentially dangerous situation less tense and diverts with something safe.

Recently, in a puppy class with a mix of puppies, one of them was afraid of the others in the beginning. The others left him alone and respected his fear. In the end he would dare to approach the others. When he did, he went into a play bow as soon as one of the other dogs looked at him. It was an obvious combination of slight fear of the others, as well as wanting to take part in the playing.

When two dogs approach each other too abruptly, you will often see that they go into a play bow. This is one of the signals that are easy to see, especially because they remain standing in the bow position for a few seconds so that you have plenty of time to observe it.

Sniffing the ground

Sniffing the ground is a frequently used signal. In groups of puppies you will see it a lot, and also when you and your dog is out walking and someone is coming towards you, in places where there´s a lot going on, in noisy places or when seeing objects that the dog isn´t sure of what is and find intimidating.

Sniffing the ground may be anything from moving the nose swiftly down toward the ground and back up again – to sticking the nose to the ground and sniff persistently for several minutes.

Is someone approaching you on the pavement? Take a look at your dog. Did he drop the nose down toward the ground, even slightly? Did he turn his side to the one approaching and sniff the side of the road?

Of course, dogs sniff a lot, also in order to ´read the paper´ and enjoy themselves. Dogs are pre-programmed to use their noses and it´s their favorite activity. However, sometimes it´s calming – it depends on the situation. So pay attention to when and in which situations the sniffing occur!

Walking slowly

High speed will be seen as threatening to many dogs, and they might want to go in to try and stop the one who is running. This is partly a hunting behavior and is triggered by the sight of a running human or dog. If the one running is coming straight at the dog, it involves a threat and a defence mechanism sets in.

A dog who is insecure will move slowly. If you wish to make a dog feel safer, then you can move slower. When I see a dog react to me with a calming signal, I immediately respond by moving slower.

Is your dog coming very slowly when you call him? If so, check the tone of your voice – do you sound angry or strict? That may be enough for him to want to calm you down by walking slowly. Have you ever been angry with him when he came to you? Then this may be why he doesn´t trust you. Another reason to calm you may be if the dog is always put on a leash when coming when called. Take a look at your dog the next time you call him. Does he give you any calming signals when coming? If he moves slowly, you may need to do something different in the way you act.


“Freezing” – is what we call it when the dog is stopping while standing completely still, sitting or laying down and remain in that position. This behavior is believed to have something to do with hunting behavior – when the prey is running, the dog attacks. Once the prey stops, the dog will stop too. We can often see this when dogs are chasing cats. This behavior, however, is used in several different situations. When you get angry and aggressive and appear threatening, the dog will often freeze and not move in order to make you be good again. Other times the dog may walk slowly, freeze, and then move slowly again. Many owners believe that they have very obedient dogs who is sitting, lying down or standing completely still. Perhaps they are actually using calming signals? Very often a dog will stop and remain calm when someone is approaching. If your dog wants to stop or move slowly in a situation like that, then let him. Also, should your dog be in a conflict situation with a human or dog, and is unable to escape, freezing may be one way to calm the other dog or person.

Sitting down/lifting one paw

I have only rarely seen dogs lift their paw as a calming signal, but on a few occasions it´s clearly been used to calm another dog.

To sit down, or an even stronger signal, to sit down with the back turned towards someone – for instance the owner – has a very calming effect. It´s often seen when one dog wants to calm another dog who is approaching too quickly. Dogs may sit down with their backs turned against the owner when he or she sounds too strict or angry.

Walking in curve

This signal is frequently used as a calming signal, and it is the main reason why dogs may react so strongly towards meeting dogs when they are forced to walk straight at someone.. Their instincts tell them that it is wrong to approach someone like that – the owner says differently. The dog gets anxious and defensive. And we get a dog who is barking and lunging at other dogs, and eventually we have an aggressive dog.

Dogs, when given a chance, will walk in curves around each other. That´s what they do when they meet off leash and are free to do things their own way. Allow your dog to do the same when he´s with you.

Some dogs needs large curves, while others only need to walk slightly curved. Allow the dog decide what feels right and safe for him, then, in time and if you want to, he can learn to pass other dogs closer.

Let the dog walk in a curve around a meeting dog! Don´t make him walk in a heel position while you´re going straight forward – give him a chance to walk in a curve past the meeting dog. If you keep the leash loose and let the dog decide, you will often see that the dog chooses to walk away instead of getting hysterical.

For the same the reason, don´t walk directly toward a dog, but walk up to it in a curve. The more anxious or aggressive the dog is, the wider you make the curve.

Other calming signals

By now you have learned about some of the more common calming signals. There are around 30 of them, and many have yet to be described. I will mention a few more briefly so that you can make further observations:

  • “Smiling”, either by pulling the corners of the mouth up and back, or by showing the teeth as in a grin.
  • Smacking the lips
  • Wagging the tail – should a dog show signs of anxiety, calming or anything that clearly has little to do with happiness, the wagging of the tail isn´t an expression of happiness, but rather that the dog wants to calm you.
  • Urinating on himself – A dog who is cowering and crawling toward his owner while wetting himself and waving his tail, is showing three clear signs of calming – and of fear. · Wanting to get up into your face and lick the corners of your mouth.
  • Making the face round and smooth with the ears close to the head in order to act like a puppy. (No one will harm a puppy, is what the dog believes)
  • Laying down with the belly against the ground. This has nothing to do with submission – submission is when the dog lays down with the belly up. Laying down with the belly towards the ground is a calming signal.
  • …an there are even more calming signals that are used in combination with others. For instance, a dog may urinate at the same time as he is turning his back to something. This is a clear sign of calming by for instance an annoying adolescent dog.

Some dogs act like puppies, jumping around and act silly, throwing sticks around, etc. if they discover a fearful dog nearby. It´s supposed to have, and does have, a calming effect.

Meeting situations

A meeting situation between two strange dogs will almost never show signs of strong submission or what people refer to as dominant behavior. A meeting situation between two dogs will usually be something like this:

King and Prince sees each other at 150 meters range and are headed toward each other. They start sending each other message the moment they see each other. Prince stops and stands still (´freezes´), and King is walking slowly while he keeps glancing at the other dog through the corner of his eye.

As King gets closer, Prince starts licking his nose intensly, and he turns his side to King and starts sniffing the ground too. Now King is so close that he needs to be even more calming, so he starts walking in a curve and away from Prince – still slowly and now he is licking his nose too. Prince sits down, and looks away by turning his head far to one side.

By now the two dogs have ´read´ each other so well that they know whether they wish to go over and greet each other, or if this could get so intense that it is best to stay away from each other.

Never force dogs into meeting others

Allow the dogs to use their language in meeting situations so that they feel safe. Sometimes they will walk up to each other and get along, other times they feel that it´s safer to stay at a distance – after all, they have already read each other´s signals, they do so even at a several hundred meters distance – there´s no need to meet face to face.

In Canada, dog trainers who attended my lecture, came up with a new name of these calming signals: ´The Language of Peace”. That´s exactly what it is. It´s a language which is there to make sure that dogs have a way to avoid and solve conflicts and live together in a peaceful manner. And the dogs are experts at it.

Start observing and you will see for yourself. Most likely, you will get a much better relationship with your dog and other dogs, too, once you are beginning to realize what the dog is really telling you. It´s likely that you will understand things you earlier were unable to figure out. It is incredibly exciting, as well as educational.

Welcome to the world of the dog, and to knowledge of a whole new language!


  1. Yawning
  2. Licking
  3. Turning away/turning of the head
  4. Play bow
  5. Sniffing the ground
  6. Walking slowly
  7. Freezing
  8. Sitting down/lifting one paw
  9. Walking in curve
  10. Smiling
  11. Smacking the lips
  12. Wagging the tail
  13. Urinating on himself
  14. Making the face round and smooth with the ears close to the head in order to act like a puppy
  15. Laying down with the belly against the ground


Knowing Your Dog’s Breed History

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Dogs are the most diverse species on the planet. Aside from giving us lots of different forms of a great friend, breeding has also resulted in many different traits and tendencies.

Knowing your dog’s breed history can not only help you understand why your dog does certain things, but it can allow you to adapt your training methods, toys, games, exercise and much more.

If you don’t know your dog’s mixture, CARE offers dog DNA testing for $60 that will tell you exactly what breeds your dog has. They’re headquartered is at 5516 Kavanaugh Blvd.

If you have adopted or purchased a pure bred dog, Animal Planet as an awesome dog breed directory that tells all about each breed — what they were bred for, what their natural temperament is, what common health problems they have as well as what kind of upkeep helps keep the dog happy and well balanced.

For example, a German Shepherd was widely used in World War I was a war sentry to keep lookout. These alert, guarding tendencies are still very recognizable in the breed. They are also heavily used as search and rescue dogs and as police dogs. Knowing this can help you determine that hide-and-seek is an applicable game to play with them. Hiding a tennis ball in the house and letting your German Shepherd seek it out will bring out an instinct in your dog that you may not have known existed. But more importantly, this type of breed specified game can result satisfied and thriving dog.


Learn to Read a Dog Food Label

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Making sure your dog has a balanced diet is just as important as obedience training to help it maintain a balanced state of mind. But, as with any product marketing, you may need to read between the lines to find out what’s really going on.

The Center for Veterinary Medicine requires dog food labels to list:

  • Proper product name
  • Proper ingredient listing
  • Net weight
  • Manufacturer’s address

The Association of American Feed Control Office (AAFCO) also has reporting guidelines. However, states or brands can choose whether they will follow these guidelines. So if a company does follow them, that’s a good sign.

AAFCO Dog Food Label Listing Guidelines:

  • Guaranteed analysis (percentage breakdown of crude protein, fat, grain, etc.)
  • Feeding directions
  • Calorie statements

What’s in a name?

First, let’s start with the product name. “Premium Lamb Formula,” ” Lamb with Rice Dog Food,” “Premium Dog Food with Chicken,” “Lamb and Duck Recipe.” These are the sorts of phrases that sell food. And dog food companies are not dumb to that fact. But did you know that companies are required to put certain amounts of an ingredient in the food based on how they structure that phrase?

Here’s a great chart we pulled from Organic Pet Digest.
Click here for a printer friendly version.

Rule What it Means Examples Tips
“95%” At least 95% of the product must be the named ingredient, not counting water and “condiments.” Counting the water, the named ingredient must still make up 70%.  If two ingredients are listed, they must combine to make up at least 95% (or 70% including water).  Only meat can be used to make up these percentages, so other ingredients like grains or vegetables cannot be used in the calculation. “Beef for Dogs” must be 95% beef. 

“Lamb and Rice Dog Food” must be 95% lamb.

Make sure the named ingredient is the first on the dog food label list of ingredients – if it is not, you can be sure that it does not make up the required percentage.
“25%” or “Dinner” (other descriptors are allowed, such as “entrée,” “formula,” “nuggets,” and “platter”) Applies to many canned and dry products.  The named ingredients must make up at least 25% of the product (not including water) but less than 95%. “Beef Dinner for Dogs” must be between 25% and 95% beef. The named ingredient will probably be third or fourth on the dog food label ingredient list.  Other unwanted ingredients not used in the product name may be more prominent.
“3%” or “with” The term “with” can be used either in the dog food label product name or as a side burst if the food is comprised of at least 3% of the named ingredient. “Beef Dinner with Cheese” must be at least 3% cheese. Pay attention to where the ingredient falls on the ingredient list; the higher up, the bigger the percentage.
“Flavor” No specific percentage is required to use the term “flavor,” but the product must contain a sufficient amount to “be detected” by specific test methods.  The word “flavor” must be the same size, style and color as the named ingredient. “Beef Flavor Dog Food” must have a trace of beef ingredients. The corresponding ingredient could be in the product, but more likely than not another cheaper and less healthy substance  will give the named flavor (i.e. beef meal, beef by-products, digests, stocks or broths).
“Stew,” “in Sauce,” “in Gravy” or other similar terms The maximum percentage moisture content for pet food is 78%, except when these terms are used.  They can have up to 87.5% moisture. “Beef Stew in Gravy” can have up to 87.5% moisture. The moisture can really throw off your understanding of how nutritious a product is for your dog.  Always calculate and compare the dry weight of a product when making a selection.  Many of the dog food recall problems were with pet food with gravy.  Steer clear to be on the safe side.
“Complete,” “Balanced,” “100% Nutritious,” or other similar terms Statement must be proven by… 

1) Following established guidelines confirming that food truly contains levels needed for a healthy animal

2) Actually being tested by AAFCO
…and indicate the appropriate life stage.

1) “Formulated to meet the nutritional levels est. by the AAFCO… Profiles” 

2) “Animal feeding tests using AAFCO procedures…” …“for growth”

In order to believe the claim, make sure the dog food label contains the AAFCO or other reputable organizations’ name.
“Premium,” “Super Premium,” “Ultra Premium,” or “Gourmet” NOT required to have any different or higher quality ingredients and NOT held to any higher standards. This was a shocker the first time we heard it.  Don’t be sucked in by this terminology without reading the rest of the label.
“Natural” or “Organic” See Natural Organic Dog Food vs. Commercial Dog Food page



Unwanted Ingredients

Because of regulations, dog food companies are required to list all the ingredients in descending order of weight. But often unhealthy and sometimes even toxic substances can be hiding in plain sight.

Here’s a list of ingredients you want to steer clear of:

  • Any artificial coloring
  • Any artificial flavoring
  • Ammoniated lgycyrrhizin
  • Bone meal
  • Butylated hydroxytoluene (bht)
  • Chicken by-products
  • Corn syrup
  • Digest of poultry by-products
  • Dried animal digest
  • Dried liver digest
  • Ethoxyquin
  • Fish by-products
  • Fish meal
  • Liver glandular meal
  • Meat by-products
  • Potassium sorbate
  • Poultry by-products
  • Poultry by-product meal
  • Propyl gallate
  • Propylene glycol
  • Sodium nitrate
  • Sucrose


In terms of vitamin supplements, a good acronym to remember which ones to add is: With vitamins, Always Bring Extra. Vitamins and minerals in dog food can be lost through heat processing, which is especially true with Vitamins A, B and E. Always add these to your dog’s diet.

Source: Organic Pet Digest

About the Author
Jamie Walden
is an experienced dog trainer and co-owner of See Spot Sit Dog Training in Little Rock, Arkansas. Contact him at jamie.walden@ymail.com with questions or comments.


Size Doesn’t Matter

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One of the most common problems we encounter in dog training is under-socialized small dogs.

Too often small dogs get away with nipping, snarling and other misbehavior because the behavior is perceived as cute.

According to a study conducted by the Applied Animal Behavior Science Journal, the top four dog breeds most likely to show aggressive behavior are, in descending order, Dachshunds, Chihuahuas, Beagles and Jack Russell Terriers.

This isn’t to demonize small breeds, because any dog can be taught to behave properly. What is important to understand is that that tiny growl from a Pappion or Dachshund isn’t cute. It’s dangerous behavior that could cause serious legal and personal problems.

If you take the same slight snarl that often occurs with small breeds and watch that behavior come from a Doberman or Pit Bull, no one in their right mind would let that behavior slide.

If small dogs misbehave, discipline them just like you would a regular sized dog. It’s the best thing for them.

Dogs of all sizes need rules and boundaries. Misbehavior comes in lots of packages, and especially when dealing with aggression, SIZE DOESN’T MATTER.